In 1983, I set out to hike the length of the relatively new Alpine Track that traversed the Victorian Alps. I didn't make it the whole way, mainly because of sore feet, and hitch-hiked home from Mt Hotham. The Alpine Track was later extended into New South Wales and became known as the Australian Alps Walking Track. In retrospect, I learnt lessons from this hike about planning, tolerance of discomfort, and focus that benefited me in all of my subsequent adventures.

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Australian Alps Walking Track - Near The Twins to Mt Hotham

Day:  009
Date:  Wednesday, 14 December 1983
Start:  Near The Twins
Finish:  Mt Hotham
Daily Kilometres:  10.9
Total Kilometres:  214.5

Journal:
Woke up at 6:00am and on road at 7:40am.  Lyre bird outside tent.  Walked to top of Hotham (11km) quite quickly in fog most of the way, but cleared at summit for good views.  Decided to hitch from there as feet showing signs of getting very sore again.  Got a lift to Harrietville, another to Bright, another to Glenrowan and finally another to Benalla.  From there, after a two-hour wait, I caught the 5:50pm train to Melbourne, getting home at about 8:30pm.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Near Mt Selwyn South Saddle to Near The Twins

Day:  008
Date:  Tuesday, 13 December 1983
Start:  Near Mt Selwyn South Saddle
Finish:  Near The Twins
Daily Kilometres:  24.8
Total Kilometres:  203.6

Journal:
After bad night (woke with feet aching) got up at 6:30am and set off at 7:50am.  After a couple of kilometres reached Mt Selwyn South Saddle and found water with great difficulty at least a kilometre down a scrubby gully.  Had a wash and picked up several leeches, some of which not discovered in shoes until an hour later. Whole effort took two hours and set off again at 10:50am.  Feet both extremely tender (more blisters) especially on outside of both heels – worried about infection.  Carried on through Barrys on pleasant fire-trails wooded with good views.  More water at Murray Hut – another kilometre there and one kilometre back, but nice little valley.  Carried on up towards The Twins on crest of ridge – alpine meadows with flowers and fantastic views.  Suddenly cloud closed in, wind rose and no views from The Twins.  Bad descent in fog with extremely sore feet.  Will hike to Hotham tomorrow and then head for home.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Mt Speculation to near Mt Selwyn South Saddle

Day:  007
Date:  Monday, 12 December 1983
Start:  Mt Speculation
Finish:  Near Mt Selwyn South Saddle
Daily Kilometres:  27.5
Total Kilometres:  177.8

Journal:
Got up early for big day and set off at 6:30am.  Tedious descent through scrub from Mt Speculation then up Mt Despair after getting water from a trickle running down the road.  After Despair, on to the Razor which took 90 minutes of scrub-bashing to cover 1.5km.  Then down to Viking Saddle where I met a guy and his son (Polish origin) who were walking the AAWT from Mt Skene to Harrietville.  We had a pleasant chat then I carried on up The Viking (1500ft in 50 minutes).  From there it was a tedious, difficult-to-follow, scrub-bash descent to the other side where I had lunch and went looking for water in extremely thick scrub without luck.  Carried on and found a water tank at Barry Saddle.  Then tried to push on to Mt Selwyn South Saddle for the night but at 9:00pm too dark and too tired so stopped.  Just in time because it started to rain.  Over-tired, I had a bad night.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Cone to Mt Speculation

Day:  006
Date:  Sunday, 11 December 1983
Start:  Cone
Finish:  Mt Speculation
Daily Kilometres:  28.5
Total Kilometres:  151.3

Journal:
Got up at 5:45am and on road at 7:20am.  Beautiful morning above clouds with mountains poking through like islands.  Climbed High Cone and easily got bearings again.  Skirted Square Top and climbed Mt Clear.  Later stopped at Chesters Yards and had wash and washed shirt.  Saw trail bike group later and then, at 1:00pm, bumped into a school group and gave them a message for Barb.  They couldn’t believe I intended to get to Catherine Saddle in the afternoon (it had taken them 1.5 days).  Realising it would be difficult, I pressed on speedily.  Lunched atop Magdala.  Beautiful grassy area in warm sunshine.  Burnt legs.  Then across Howitt.  Spectacular scenery the whole way then Crosscut Saw and Mt Speculation.  Found nice camp just on the other side.  Had trouble getting water.  Had to scrub bash.  Absolutely beautiful evening.  No clouds, no wind, lovely sunset.  Perfect end to spectacular tiring day.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Mt McKinty to Cone

Day:  005
Date:  Saturday, 10 December 1983
Start:  Mt McKinty
Finish:  Cone
Daily Kilometres:  23.8
Total Kilometres:  122.8

Journal:
Woke up at 5:30am and on road by 7:00am, determined to make good time.  First 7km to Low Saddle OK, then stuffed around getting water from stagnant pool and losing track.  Very slow ascent up Mt McDonald because of rocky terrain and thick scrub.  Lunch at the top then stopped on the way down and detoured to get more water – lost again and cost 50 minutes.  Trouble with feet and crutch chafe. Fog closed in at Knobs around 6:00pm, then met three guys camped.  Five minute chat.  On way again, but lost track in fog near Cone.  Stuffed around trying to locate myself.  Fog thicker.  Decided to play safe and camp at 8:00pm.  Eerie with complete silence in fog while having dinner.  Magic.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Black River to Mt McKinty

Day:  004
Date:  Friday, 9 December 1983
Start:  Black River
Finish:  Mt McKinty
Daily Kilometres:  25.2
Total Kilometres:  99.0

Journal:
Woke up at 5:45am, but slow to get underway because of repacking scroggin.  Retraced steps for 0.5km and took the right track down to Black River.  Finally crossed for last (fifth) time at 9:00am after one hour of following faint track along and in the river (1.2km).  Ever watchful for snakes.  Fell over once.  After final crossing, stripped off, had dip, and washed socks and undies – freezing cold, leeches.  Then set off up faint track to Mt Shillinglaw – tough climb.  Then to Mt Skene Lookout – another tough climb.  Pleasant sunny warm day.  Then descent to Mt Sunday Track.  More ups and downs.  Treated more blisters at lunch.  Feet very very sore.  Shoulders better since using waist strap.  Saw echidna.  Filled water bottles at trickle stream.  Camped at top of Mt McKinty at 8:10pm just as clouds rolled in.  Legs very tired - climbed altogether 2200m (7000ft) today.

Australian Alps Walking Track - Violet Town to Black River

Day: 003
Date: Thursday, 8 December 1983
Start: Violet Town
Finish: Black River
Daily Kilometres: 24.1
Total Kilometres: 73.8

Journal:
Slept quite well.  Extremely tired.  Got up at 6:30am but, after breakfast and wash and re-pack, didn’t start walking until 8:30am.  Straight up extremely steep hill for 2 – 3km.  Then, on reaching main road, turned wrong way!  Woke up in Aberfeldy (extra 4km there and 4km back).  Very demoralising.  Feet extremely painful.  Stopped and broke blisters and patched up feet.  Same again at lunch.  Feet very sore.  Walked on to Black River.  750m drop, but “jogged” down quite quickly.  Saw a large feral dog.  Feet so sore.  Took wrong turn, but found out 0.5km later.  Getting dark and stopped at 8:30pm.  Quick tea, feet wash, and into bed.